A short review of The Great Northern

The Great Northern (the website does not really work, at least not in Chrome) is a bar/pub/bistro on Station Road in Cambridge and now under new management (previously Sauce and then The Great Northern but that did not do particularly well). A number of fellow foodies had already commented favourably on their food so I tried it when I had the chance.
The first time was a couple of weeks ago on my return from holiday. I was not very hungry then so only had a small dish of “tempura duck dumplings with Asian slaw”. This was very good indeed, with a crunchy coating and flavourful, tender and moist meat inside. The slaw worked well with it.

Having enjoyed my first visit, I came back yesterday for dinner. This time I had lemon sole, gently fried in butter with sauteed green and sea vegetables and new potatoes. In my opinion, the best way to test a kitchen is to see if they can cook a delicate fish well and this was certainly the case here. The flesh was moist and flaky with a fresh flavour. Overall, there was probably a bit too much butter for my taste but that was a minor quibble.
I might not go there deliberately but if I find myself hungry after a train journey and they are still open, it is certainly another opportunity, together with Marrakech around the corner.

Aspall's at The Great Northern

Lemon Sole at The Great Northern


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